When you order hair extensions from a supplier for the first time, the term “double drawn” shows up in almost every product description. It sounds premium. Most suppliers use it as a selling point without ever explaining what it means in practice. This post breaks down exactly what single drawn and double drawn refer to, why the difference matters when you’re buying in volume, and how it affects your client results.
What Single Drawn Actually Means
Raw human hair collected for extension manufacturing doesn’t come in uniform lengths. When someone donates or sells their hair, the individual strands vary in length – shorter hairs near the nape, medium-length hairs in the mid-sections, and longer hairs from the top. That natural variation stays in the hair when it’s processed into extensions.
Single drawn hair is processed once. The manufacturer aligns the cuticles (important for Remy quality) but doesn’t remove the shorter strands. The result is a bundle or weft that contains the full range of lengths. If you purchase a 20-inch single drawn weft, a significant portion of the hair in that weft will be shorter – some strands at 14 inches, some at 16 inches, some at 18 inches, with the longest strands reaching the advertised 20 inches.
A typical single drawn weft at 100g might have roughly 50-60% of the strands at the advertised length. The rest tapers down. This gives the weft a natural taper that mimics how human hair grows – thicker near the root, thinner toward the ends.
What Double Drawn Means
Double drawn hair goes through a second processing step where technicians (by hand) remove shorter strands and add in more hair at the full advertised length. The result is a weft or bundle where 70-80% (sometimes more, depending on the manufacturer) of the strands are at or close to the full stated length.
The weft feels noticeably thicker from root to tip. When you hold a double drawn 20-inch weft next to a single drawn one of equal weight, the double drawn weft looks fuller throughout its entire length. The ends don’t taper as dramatically.
This is why double drawn costs more. The extra processing step is labor-intensive. And because shorter strands are removed during processing, you need to start with a larger raw weight to end up with a finished product that weighs 100g at consistent length.
The Practical Difference in the Salon Chair
For most application methods, double drawn produces a more uniform, voluminous result with less blending work required. Here’s how it breaks down by method:
Genius weft and hand-tied weft: Double drawn wefts create more volume per row because the hair stays dense through the entire length. With single drawn, the taper can show through when the client wears their hair in a ponytail or styled up, because the ends look thinner. For clients who specifically book for fullness and length, double drawn is worth the cost difference.
Tape-in extensions: Double drawn tape-ins are noticeably thicker at the tips, which affects how they blend in. Some stylists actually prefer single drawn tape-ins for finer hair clients because the natural taper is easier to blend without bulk. Thicker hair clients – and clients wanting major volume – do better with double drawn.
K-tip and I-tip (individual strand methods): The drawn level matters less here because each strand is placed individually and the density is controlled by how many strands you apply. That said, double drawn strands still produce fuller-looking results at the ends when styled.
Weight and Volume: The Math That Matters
A 100g single drawn weft and a 100g double drawn weft are not equivalent in terms of visible coverage. The single drawn weft has more total strands (because it includes the shorter ones), but less of that weight contributes to the length your client sees. A double drawn 100g weft delivers more of its weight at the styled length.
This means that for a full head application where your client wants 18-22 inches of uniform volume, double drawn typically requires fewer grams to achieve the visual result. Some stylists who switch from single drawn to double drawn find they can achieve the same look with 20-25% less product by weight. That affects your cost-per-head calculation when you’re pricing services.
The inverse is also worth understanding: if you’re using single drawn hair and your client feels the result looks thin at the ends after installation, adding more grams is often the instinct – but switching to double drawn might be the more cost-efficient fix.
How to Verify What You’re Buying
The terminology is not regulated. Any supplier can call their product “double drawn” regardless of the actual processing. Before ordering in volume, ask your supplier these specific questions:
- What percentage of strands in a 100g weft are at the full stated length?
- Is the drawing process done by hand or machine?
- Can you send a swatch so I can compare thickness at mid-length vs. the tip?
A reputable supplier will answer these without hesitation. If you get vague marketing language instead of numbers, that tells you something about how the product is positioned.
When you receive the sample, fold the weft in half lengthwise and look at the tip section. Double drawn hair should show minimal taper – the folded end should look nearly as full as the fold itself. Single drawn will show a clear taper at the tip.
Which One Should You Stock?
Most salons doing volume work benefit from stocking double drawn as their primary product. The reason is client satisfaction – fuller ends mean fewer callbacks, easier blending, and clients who feel the result matches what they paid for. The higher cost per gram is offset by reduced chair time and fewer adjustment appointments.
Single drawn has legitimate uses: clients with fine natural hair where over-blending is a risk, applications where the natural taper actually helps the blend (certain tape-in placements), and budget tiers where you’re offering a lower price point service explicitly.
If you’re building a wholesale relationship with a supplier, clarify drawn level in writing on your purchase orders. It’s one of the most overlooked quality variables in wholesale buying, and standardizing it eliminates a major source of inconsistency across your orders.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does double drawn mean in hair extensions?
Double drawn means the hair has been processed a second time to remove shorter strands and add more hair at the full advertised length. The result is a weft or bundle where 70-80% or more of the strands reach the stated length, compared to roughly 50-60% in single drawn hair. This creates a thicker, more uniform look from root to tip.
Is double drawn hair worth the extra cost for salons?
For most salon applications, yes. Double drawn hair requires less time to blend, produces more consistent results, and generates fewer client complaints about thin ends. The higher cost per gram is typically offset by reduced adjustment appointments and stronger client retention. For fine-hair clients or budget service tiers, single drawn may still be appropriate.
How can I tell if a supplier is actually selling double drawn hair?
Fold a weft sample in half lengthwise and examine the tip section. Genuine double drawn hair shows minimal taper – the tip end should look nearly as dense as the fold. You can also ask the supplier what percentage of strands in a 100g weft are at the full stated length; a credible answer is 70-80% or higher. Vague marketing language without specific numbers is a red flag.
Does the drawn level affect how much hair a client needs for a full head installation?
Yes. Because double drawn hair delivers more of its weight at the full stated length, clients often need fewer grams to achieve the same visual density as single drawn. Stylists switching from single to double drawn sometimes find they can use 20-25% less product by weight and get a comparable result. This changes your cost-per-head calculation when pricing services.